Curvilinear collar liner



March 18, 1941. J MQORE 2,235,294

' CURVILINEAR COLLAR LINER I Filed March 19, 1940 a7. an

Patented Mar. 18, 1941 UNITED CUftVIIlINEAR COLLAR LINER John V. Moore, Pawtucket, R. 1. assigno'r'to Moore Fabric Company, Pawtucket, R. 1., a corporation of Rhode Island Application March 19, 1940, Serial No. 324,768

2 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of collars for mens wear, either of attached or detached type.

It is the general object of my invention to provide a liner for such collars so constructed that it Will assume a definite curvilinear form on shrinking and finishing, and that it will thereafter permlanently retain such curvilinear form.

A further object of the invention is to provide a curvilinear collar liner of such construction that it may be woven as a straight fiat fabric which does not assume curvilinear form until removed from the loom and subjected to shrinking and finishing operations.

My invention further relates to arrangements and combinations of parts which will be hereinafter described and more particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

A preferred form of the invention is shown in the drawing, in which i Fig. l is a plan view of a portion of my improved collar liner, as Woven;

Fig. 2 is a similar view of a portion of the liner after shrinking and finishing;

Fig. 3 is a front view of a conical warp beam preferably used for the binder threads; and

Fig. 4 is a front view of a graduated reed.

Referring to the drawing, my imlproved collar liner is Woven as a straight fiat continuous fabric having a body portion l0 and a fold portion H. The body portion I0 is of multi-ply construction, while the fold portion H is made single-ply and using relatively light warp threads only.

In the body portion I0, I provide a set of face warp threads I2 of relatively larger diameter and softer finish, and a second set of binder warp threads M which are of relatively smaller diameter and harder finish. The weft threads l6 commonly correspond more or less in size and finish to the binder warp threads M. In the fold portion H, warp threads I8 only are used and these threads more or less correspond to the binder warps M in size.

The fabric is preferably woven in a graduated reed of the type shown at 20 in Fig. 4, in which reed the spacing of the reed dents increases progressively from one side of the reed to the other. The more finely graduated side of the reed corresponds to the side S of the woven fabric, so that the warp threads l2 and 14 are thus crowded more closely together in the part S.

I also find it desirable to wind the binder warp threads [4 on a tapered warp beam, as shown at 22 in Fig. 3, and this warp beam is so disposed during weaving that the small end of the beam, will be at the side S of the fabric, at which side also the warp threads are crowded more closely together.

It will thus be evident that, as the cloth is Woven, a slightly greater length of binder warps I4 will be fed to the cloth at the side S of the fabric, where the warp threads [2 and M are also more widely spaced. The side S of the fabric is thus of greater density and more tightly woven, first from, having a greater number of warp threads per unit of width, and. second from having the binder warps therein under greater tension during the weaving.

When the straight fabric thus woven is removed from the loom and subjected to shrinking and finishing" operations, the side S of the fabric, being more closely and also more tightly woven, will resist shrinkage, while the side S, being more coarsely and less tightly woven, will shrink quite readily. Consequently, the collar liner on shrinking will assume the curvilinear shape shown in Fig. 2, with the convex or outer portion corresponding to the portion S of the straight fabric and with the concave portion 3| corresponding to the portion S.

As previously'explained, the fine end'of the reed 20 and the small end of the Warp beam 22 are associated in producing the portion S which becomes the long or convex edge of the finished fabric.

I thus produce a curvilinear collar liner having an easily flexible fold portion along its concave edge, which fabric may be easily and rapidly woven straight in an ordinary loom but which assumes a: natural and permanent curvature when subjected to shrinking and finishing op-, erations.

The amount of curvature can be varied by varying the spacing of the graduated reed 29 and also by varying the taper of the warp beam 22. For ordinary purposes, it is not necessary to vary the size of the warps I2 or M across the face of the fabric, but warps of increased size might be used in the portion S where excessive curvature is required. v

It is to be particularly noted that the curvature on shrinkage is due to the greater density and firmer weaving tension of the portion S of the fabric, which portion resists shrinkage more effectively than the loosely and slackly woven portion S.

Having thus described my invention and the advantages thereof, I do not wish to be limited to the details herein disclosed, otherwise than as set forth in the claims, but what I claim is;

2. A curvilinear collar liner having a multicave edge.

portion disposed at one edge thereof, said body portion comprising non-elastic weft threads and non-elastic warp threads, with the spacing of the warp threads gradually increasing toward 'said fold portion and with the tension of certain of the warp threads gradually decreasing toward said fold portion, all parts of said liner being so constructed and arranged that said liner is substantially straight as woven but assumes a predetermined curvilinear shape on shrinkage, with said fold portion at the shorter and con- JOHN V. MOORE.

ply body portion with a narrow single-ply fold 

